I love the way this peeks through the plants surrounding it: its growth pattern is sprawling, such that one planted by itself won't exceed 6" or so in height - but plant it next to taller companions, and it lifts itself to greater heights. It doesn't so much climb as support itself on its neighbors. That's why I have a hard time getting a good whole-plant photo: it's spread out, with its marvellous flowers popping out here and there.
||poppy mallow; winecups
||deep purple (June)
||ordinary garden soil
||nick, germinate at room temperature
detailed seed-starting info below
|Seed ripens||late August|
|For some reason, I'm always tickled by the frumpy, ground-hugging seedlings. They're slow to grow in their first year. |
We left this plant behind in our Pennsylvania garden (and wish it well); we don't grow it in Houston.
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PlantLinks to other web pages about Callirhoe involucrata
Visitors to this page have left the following comments
|Vera Moore||Apr 03, 2009||Beautiful picture :)
Sounds like a great candidate for winter sowing! I have seeds and believe I will try them next year; not enough cold weather left for proper stratification.
|Mary Ann - firstname.lastname@example.org||Jun 08, 2009||I really a question about winecups (callirhoe involucrata). If it is sprawling a little too far can I prune it back without damaging the plant?
Thanks in advance for the help.|
Cutting wayward trailing stem back won't hurt the plant a bit.
|mel jones||Oct 22, 2010||I live in GA and I do not see any place where this plant is grown in GA. Is it possible?|
You're at the southernmost region where this plant is likely to thrive - but yes, I think it should be possible.
|Claudia||Jul 29, 2011||It looks really pretty, and I'm tempted to try it out. Wikipedia says that Callirhoe has a large tap root; is it hard to get rid of if I decide I don't want it any more? As it's a wildflower, does it self-seed prolifically? Thank-you!|
The taproot just makes it difficult to transplant, I don't think it would be difficult to kill if you tried (I've not been tempted to do so :-). While collected seeds aren't too difficult to germinate, I've never had volunteers pop up – but that may be different in your climate. In any case, I wouldn't expect rampant seeding.
|Nancy B||Sep 02, 2017||I live in Colorado on the front range, and my winecups are aggressive re-seeders. Every spring I have more than a dozen of two little starters to give friends. This is out of a 15 x 20 groundcover area.|
- Seed from '01 JLH order. Soaked 24hr, baggy 75F (22%G)
- Same seed as above. Dehulled seed - more than 50% empty. Nicked/soaked. Baggy 70F (20%G, 4-14d)
- Seed from '04 garden. Dehulled. Baggy 70F (30%G, 5-42d) - nicked (7%G, 14d)
- Seed from '07 garden. Scissor-snipped husks, thereby crudely scarifying inner seed. Baggy 70F (45%G, 7-21d)
- Seed from '08 garden. Scissor-snipped husks. Baggy 70F (35d; 30%G, 8-21d) - dehusked/sandpapered a few - 70F (20%G, 10-22d)
- Seed from '09 garden. Sandpapered the husked seeds, during which a few lost their husks. Baggy 70F (27%G, 7-40d)
- Same seed as above. Sandpapered, baggy 70F (20%G, 6-46d, with additional scarification).
Also var. tenuissima from HPS/MAG '13/'14 exchange. Sandpapered, baggy 70F (25%G, 5d)
- Same seed as above. Sandpapered, baggy 70F (17%G, 5-21d)
Seeds inside the wedge-shaped hulls are dark, kidney-shaped. Removing hulls is a slow, painful task - probably easier to sow an excess, to deal with the low germination rate. Seeds dehusked and scarified do tend to germinate within a few days.
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April 15, 2014