Hypericum androsaemum 'Albury Purple'
Plum to purplish-green leaves; bright yellow flowers through summer, followed by red berries. In cold winters, the top-growth may die back to the ground, with new growth emerging from the roots. Even if it doesn't, it's good to prune back hard in spring to encourage a flush of new colorful growth. Deer resistant.
||purple St John's wort
deciduous shrub (Z5-8)
||full sun-part shade
||well-drained garden soil
||germinate at room temperature with exposure to light
detailed seed-starting info below
|Seed ripens||early October|
|Foliage goes to its full dark-purple coloration in fall |
We left this plant behind in our Pennsylvania garden (and wish it well); we don't grow it in Houston.
Seed for this plant is included on my seed trade list
One or more images of this plant are included in my stock photo catalog
About my plant portraits
PlantLinks to other web pages about Hypericum androsaemum 'Albury Purple'
Some particularly helpful links to other websites
Visitors to this page have left the following comments
|carol lade||Jul 27, 2005||Do you ever have trouble with rust on your Hypericum Albury Purple?|
Not thus far, Carol
|roseline glazer||Jun 22, 2006||i'm not sure how this gorgeous plant turned up near my driveway in a shady wooded area, but it has. it is magnificent and i'd like to get a few more. do you sell your seeds or know where the plants are sold?
I've no way of getting back to you, roseline. I do have seed - email me if you're interested.
|Kat||May 13, 2008||Can these be placed in pots?|
I guess they could. If you plan to leave them outside over winter, you probably need to be at least a zone warmer than the coldest listed zone, so zone 6 or 7.
|Eleanor Hrubesh||May 19, 2009||I live in Northeast Maryland. Last summer we did landscape that included three Hypericum Androsaemum Albury Purple plants at the base of a weeping cherry. One of them has come up while the other two have not. I did not cut them back in the fall. Should I cut them back now and should they be up by now.|
Even when the top growth is winter-killed, these plants start pushing up new growth by mid-April in our climate (slightly colder than yours). So yes, they should be up by now. I'm glad you have at least one survivor!
|Nancy||May 25, 2009||I have had no luck with the Albury Purple we have replanted them now two years in a row and they do not come back the next year we live in northwest ohio.
Your zone should be similar to ours (depending on how close to the lake you are). I've found Albury Purple to be somewhat finnicky. It definitely does not like to be transplanted, and sometimes just dies in winter or in the process of sending out new growth in early spring. My advice: plant them early in the season, and make sure they do well through summer and fall, so they are well established by the time winter hits. Mulch is probably a good idea.
|Judy Holter||Apr 07, 2010||We live in southwest Ohio. We have 5 of the plants in the front facing the southwest. It is the first full year. The plants went through a winter. Right now the plants look like they are dead. It looks like there is some green at the base. SHould we cut the plants back to the ground? Are the gone. We have many many deer.|
Green at the base is good. They will come back just fine. I'd wait another week or so to make sure last year's top growth isn't resprouting leaves, then you can cut them back, and wait for the new growth to fill in.
|Amy||Sep 05, 2010||Can anyone tell me it the berries are hamful if eaten right off the plant? I have a 2 year old and would like to know if this is a safe plant to have around him.|
|Ellen||Dec 23, 2010||Some leaves/berries were included in a cut flower funeral basket recently received. Would like to try and germinate the seeds. Is this possible? If so, how?
If the berries were black and dry, then yes, you should be able to harvest and germinate the seeds. To germinate, just sow at room temperature, barely covered (seed needs light to germinate).
|Geri||Sep 03, 2011||I recently purchased a Hypericum "Albury Purple" end of season sale cheap. The top part is very dried out but underneath the plant looks quite healthy. I usually have a way with plants and thought I would give it a try. Any advice on how I should care for it. I planted it in really good soil in mostly sun some shade from a crape myrtle near by. I watered it well and gave it a blessing and hope it will come back in spring. Should I wait to cut it back in spring or get the dried top parts off now? Thanks |
You can remove the sad parts now. A word of warning - when I've tried to transplant mine in fall, they did not always survive. I recommend a healthy mulch cover to help the roots through the winter. And in spring, be looking for new growth not just from the woody remains, but also from the very base of the plant.
|Ellen||Jul 05, 2012||I absolutly love this plant. Looks great all summer and appears to be pest resistant (knock on wood). I live in central Ontario and it is in part sun with lots of mulch. It dies down each year and is late to sprout new leaves. Just when I think all is lost, it comes back. I've had this for about 6 years.|
|Moaning Minnie||Jul 29, 2017||I have loads of hypericum androsaemum which spread like weeds. They alwaysget rust on the leaves midsummer and the leaves die and go brown, fall off and make a horrible mess. |
- Seed from '01/'02 HPS/MAG exchange. Baggy 70F with light (75%G, 11-50d)
- Same seed as above. Baggy 70F with light (25+%G, 28-45d)
- Same seed as above. Baggy 70F with light (50%G, 12-23d)
- Seed from '04 garden. Baggy 70F with light (28%G, 21-40d)
- Seed from '06 garden. Baggy 70F with light (14%G, 27-43d)
- Seed from '08 garden. Baggy 70F with light (no G, 8w)
- Seed from '06 garden. Baggy 70F with light (55%G, 17-30d)
- Seed from '06 garden. Baggy 70F with light (36%G, 18-45d)
- Seed from '12 garden. Baggy 70F with light (33+%G, 9-17d)
- Seed from '12 garden. Baggy 70F with light (15%G, 15-60d)
- Seed from '14 garden, cold-stored. Baggy 70F with light (41%G, 12-20d)
Long-viable seed. Somewhat finnicky as seedlings.
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